I soon found myself covering the Watergate scandal as CBS White House
correspondent. It was to be the first of many stories to prove that
the idealistic hope of the 60's had indeed gone forever, and it was
admittedly kind of fun helping to crush peoples' spirits like that.
Of all the places I visited
in the tumultuous 70's — Vietnam, Haiti, Japan — it was China that captured
my heart. I have since come to count on her for the tight, suffocating
grip on her populace that makes for such great soundbites. China has
an almost supernatural knack for exploding in political turmoil precisely
when it's a slow news week. When Hong Kong returned to Chinese rule,
I was there with microphone in hand, talking at whatever camera pointed
in my direction. When
demonstrations turned brutal in Tiananmen Square, I was there, watching
safely from my hotel window while I shared the company of Mr. Tom Collins.
When economic downturn erupted in labor unrest and uncertainty, and
the People's Republic took to the streets in violent protest, I was
there, vacationing.
But in 1972, China's throbbing
boomtowns and malodorous rice paddies were as yet an unwrapped present
waiting for me. In fact, I admit a slight unwillingness at first to
even go. When I was first approached about going to China to cover President
Nixon's historic bridge-building visit, my first reaction was an emphatic
"Are you fucking kidding me?" I
had just gotten back from Vietnam, where I'd suffered humiliation due
to my lack of knowledge about Vietnamese culture. I was not eager to
throw myself into yet another situation where my ignorance would reflect
badly on me. (By the way, if you ever find yourself in Vietnam —
and if you do, honestly, just leave — be careful not to throw your
coat over any small statues and call them "little fella."
They are apparently shrines to their ancestors. Go figure on that one.)
Luckily, my editor at the
time had the presence of mind to know what was best, and so I was drugged,
tied up, and flown over under cover of night. I woke up en route and,
due to the power of the sedatives and the depths of my confusion, I
had to be restrained until we landed. Once in China, however, I knew
immediately that I was home. Unlike other places I could mention, the
people of China are at their core polite and well-mannered, and did
not comment negatively on my lack of awareness of their customs once.
Even after I knocked over a statue, which admittedly looked kind of
important, I was met with humble bows and nods. What a swell bunch of
guys.
It
would be nice to say that I was there with Nixon for his historic visit
to the Great Wall, or close at hand during his first, also-historic
meeting with Chairman Mao. Unfortunately, what the tour guides won't
tell you is that China is a very, very large place, much bigger than
you'd guess from the maps, which are small. Upon landing in China, I
meant to head directly to the American Embassy, where I would be briefed
on the specifics of Nixon's visit and given a press package detailing
the scheduled stops. I flagged down a rickshaw and headed deep into
China's heart, where I became impenetrably lost and spent the next week
walking around dehydrated and confused.
After seven days of living
off of raw chicken and wearing the same tasteful charcoal-gray suit,
I managed only to make it back to the airport where I'd originally started.
Terrified of getting lost again, I camped out on the tarmac until it
was time to go back home. Though my first trip to China was disastrous,
I would learn from my mistakes. On subsequent visits, I relied heavily
on the "buddy" system, and it rarely failed me.